Thursday 18 June 2015
Thursday 21 May 2015
0-60 Time
In the absence of a rolling road it is nice to see if the performance of the car is dwindling in horses in any way.
There is an excellent on line 0-60 mph calculator http://www.060calculator.com/
For the Megabusa this gave 3.9s for 621.5kg and 176.4bhp. The weight was taken from the recent corner weight measurement and the bhp was taken at Sitech racing last year http://westfieldbusa.blogspot.co.uk/2014/06/dynamometer-test.html
I set up a track on Race Chrono, using a safe bit of road where the terminal speed was less important and 60mph was obtainable in relative safety. You can see that the example gave a result of 3.7s which is about 0.2s optimistic (or the Sitech results are pessimistic). However if you take into account that the test track was up a gradient and the starting speed is not 0 then the level of correlation is not bad.
I have measured my wife's Mondaeo, Sylva J15 and a Westfield Zetec and all gave results that were within about 0.5s of prediction.
There is an excellent on line 0-60 mph calculator http://www.060calculator.com/
For the Megabusa this gave 3.9s for 621.5kg and 176.4bhp. The weight was taken from the recent corner weight measurement and the bhp was taken at Sitech racing last year http://westfieldbusa.blogspot.co.uk/2014/06/dynamometer-test.html
I set up a track on Race Chrono, using a safe bit of road where the terminal speed was less important and 60mph was obtainable in relative safety. You can see that the example gave a result of 3.7s which is about 0.2s optimistic (or the Sitech results are pessimistic). However if you take into account that the test track was up a gradient and the starting speed is not 0 then the level of correlation is not bad.
I have measured my wife's Mondaeo, Sylva J15 and a Westfield Zetec and all gave results that were within about 0.5s of prediction.
Sunday 10 May 2015
Corner weights
I have been pondering for some time the issue of corner weights and how far the setup on the Westfield was from optimal. There is a very good on line spread sheet and explanation of how to set up your car at: https://robrobinette.com/corner_weight_calc.htm
There is also a very good Excel spread sheet by Nick Warinner of ntw@360racing.com that I copied and modified to add the cross weight calculation information recommended in the above advisory site.
Cross weight = (Right Front + Left Rear)/Total weight.
I also purchased a set of Proform Bluetooth corner weight measuring pads from ebay tegiwaimports these are a budget product but works well and is easy to use.
Here are the results, you will have to open the image by double clicking it.
In summary I did the following.
1) Ensure the tyres are all the same pressure
2) The suspension height front and back are correct. In my case the lower front wishbones are horizontal and the front to back was 20mm
3) Adjust all the spring lengths FL = FR and RL = RR as a good starting point.
In summary I cannot see the advantage in my car of biasing it to handle with the driver only as it only makes a 0.3% difference. It means the handling is optimal with a passenger also depending on weight.
There is also a very good Excel spread sheet by Nick Warinner of ntw@360racing.com that I copied and modified to add the cross weight calculation information recommended in the above advisory site.
Cross weight = (Right Front + Left Rear)/Total weight.
I also purchased a set of Proform Bluetooth corner weight measuring pads from ebay tegiwaimports these are a budget product but works well and is easy to use.
Here are the results, you will have to open the image by double clicking it.
1) Ensure the tyres are all the same pressure
2) The suspension height front and back are correct. In my case the lower front wishbones are horizontal and the front to back was 20mm
3) Adjust all the spring lengths FL = FR and RL = RR as a good starting point.
 |
| Starting point no driver |
 |
| Adjusted no driver |
 |
| Adjusted + driver |
Sunday 22 February 2015
Progress spring 2015
I had a whale of a time during summer 2014 visiting as many track days as my budget would allow. The car has mostly behaved itself but you can always improve these cars. The major issues mechanically was 1) The slave cylinder giving me poor clutch control 2) The drive shaft coupling bolts come loose fro time to time. With the addition of the SBD slave cylinder that should help the clutch issue and the wiring the drive shaft bolt heads should help the loosening issue. There is so much vibration at this junction I guess this problem never really goes away.
I have concentrated recently on the weight of the car which I think was unnecessarily high for a Megabusa. The outstanding issues were mainly due to the economies of the original build, no criticism implied.
I have just upgraded the front suspension with new light weight RD uprights and hub carriers (8Kg saved) and the battery to Lithium ion (8Kg saved) and the carbon bonnet with (2.6Kg saved) that makes a total of 18.6Kg saved. If we add in the metalwork thrown away on the paddle shift upgrade that makes a round 20Kg total. It is not just the weight saving, but the overall value and look of the car has been improved yet again.
The other changes are to improve the oil cooling so I added a duct at the rear of the nose cone and heat shield to stop the new bonnet overheating.
In summary another years improvements to try out on the track.
Contents
There is a contents page Link
I have concentrated recently on the weight of the car which I think was unnecessarily high for a Megabusa. The outstanding issues were mainly due to the economies of the original build, no criticism implied.
I have just upgraded the front suspension with new light weight RD uprights and hub carriers (8Kg saved) and the battery to Lithium ion (8Kg saved) and the carbon bonnet with (2.6Kg saved) that makes a total of 18.6Kg saved. If we add in the metalwork thrown away on the paddle shift upgrade that makes a round 20Kg total. It is not just the weight saving, but the overall value and look of the car has been improved yet again.
The other changes are to improve the oil cooling so I added a duct at the rear of the nose cone and heat shield to stop the new bonnet overheating.
In summary another years improvements to try out on the track.
Contents
There is a contents page Link
Friday 20 February 2015
Carbon weight saving bonnet
The bonnet on my car has always been an irritant. The 2009 builder had reused an old V8 bonnet and filled in holes in the side for a previous air intake. Also I think there have been various repairs over the years that have resulted in the bonnet being very heavy.
I commissioned Scottish Kit Car Centre (Andy) to make me a lighter one. With his amazing contacts in the industry he came up with the goods. The pattern was taken off the original bonnet and a set of moulds made. The carbon was then layered into the mould with resin.
Here are the results, as a first fit. The vents have still to have the mesh bonded in however the result is fantastic. The weight difference is 7.3Kg vs 4.7Kg a total saving of 2.6Kg. The GRP bodywork is from an early sierra wide bodied kit and has fixed arches and different swage lines to the latest production panels. We decided to paint the panel in two pack to match the rest of the car. Over the last few changes
Contents
There is a contents page Link
I commissioned Scottish Kit Car Centre (Andy) to make me a lighter one. With his amazing contacts in the industry he came up with the goods. The pattern was taken off the original bonnet and a set of moulds made. The carbon was then layered into the mould with resin.
Here are the results, as a first fit. The vents have still to have the mesh bonded in however the result is fantastic. The weight difference is 7.3Kg vs 4.7Kg a total saving of 2.6Kg. The GRP bodywork is from an early sierra wide bodied kit and has fixed arches and different swage lines to the latest production panels. We decided to paint the panel in two pack to match the rest of the car. Over the last few changes
Contents
There is a contents page Link
Friday 13 February 2015
Front uprights and hub carriers
The next on the list for upgrade this winter are the front uprights and hub carriers. The existing uprights are still serviceable but I am on a mission to save more weight. The Cortina geometry uprights currently fitted are made of steel so is the hub carriers. A potential weight saving of 4kg per side is achievable. To improve the looks and reduce the weight of the steel Cortina uprights a lot of filing and grinding was obviously necessary in the past.
Rally Design (RD) make an alloy upright that is rather pleasing to the eye compared to the Westfield part. I also wanted to retain my Dynalite calipers that I had just paid for at the recent vented disk upgrade.
I also made the acquaintance of Callan from http://www.t89.co.uk/ who is a registered trader on the Locostbuilders forum and offered me his help with the upgrade because he had some useful parts and advice.
The key part that Callan provided were some adapters to take the RD upright and adapt it to the M16 type calliper in the form of a Willwood Dynalite. Apparently RD supplied that part at one time and Callan had a spare s/h set. He titivated them and shipped them (although I am sure he can make some for you) with the rest of the RD kit along with some adapters for the upper rose joints (which I have still to install, perhaps!).
The fitting of all this lot was not easy and was made more difficult by the vented disk which is thicker than normal. My setup is unique I guess, most people would probably be upgrading the callipers at the same time which would already fit the RD kit. Here is a list of all my modifications in case you wish to follow my path.
* Missing M16 x 1.5 castle nuts and Ford keyed washer. The only washer supplied has to be opened out to 18mm. The stub axle has to have 5mm removed to allow the alloy cap to fit. After adding the castle nuts the alloy cap had to be opened out (internally) to stop it fouling the alloy cap with the slit pin.
* The lower Maxi ball joints comes with a 3/8" hole and the wishbones have a 10mm hole. This can and did lead to wearing of the bolts (on previous build) if not changed to 10mm.
* Alloy hub needs turned in lathe to provide the extra room for the vented disk. This amounted to 2mm.
* Brake calliper fits but needs 3mm spacers when the above is done.
* Cycle wing supports are a total misfit to upright, lots of thought went into this as I did not want the expense/effort of adding new wing stays. Minor fabrication welds to the original cycle wing stays. A bit tricky you need two people to get the fit right.
* The Dynalyte calliper mounting bracket fouls the RD upright casting. A chunk of the alloy bracket needs removed but not enough to weaken it.
* The existing ball joints don't fit the RD upright. A search on the Locostbuilders forum revealed the following.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
”TRE (Track Rod Ends)
There are two different tapers and two different threads
1) Escort MkII Escort are M14 with the metric (large) taper. (this also include granadas to 1987, Cortinas MkIII and Mk V to 1982). FT722 , QR1834
2) Capri MkI, MkII, MkIII all up to September 1987, also some Escort Mk I and other fords (Fiesta up to 1993, Orion and Escort MkIII and MkIV, to 1990). are imperial thread and imperial (small) taper. Part number; Ford 6128814 & 5021410. Direct Part Number DR2377, AMR1205
MkII RS2000 uses MkII Escort rack and Capri uprights and so uses a hybrid TRE (M14 thread, but small taper). These are also known as “green” TRE, as they are (you guessed it) Green (at least the For original one, this doesn’t apply to the equivalent pattern parts!). AMR4118. 1564468. AM260
Most TRE labelled RS2000 on e-bay are wrong. I had to send 2 pairs back before spending more money on proper ones. “
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Rally Design (RD) make an alloy upright that is rather pleasing to the eye compared to the Westfield part. I also wanted to retain my Dynalite calipers that I had just paid for at the recent vented disk upgrade.
I also made the acquaintance of Callan from http://www.t89.co.uk/ who is a registered trader on the Locostbuilders forum and offered me his help with the upgrade because he had some useful parts and advice.
The key part that Callan provided were some adapters to take the RD upright and adapt it to the M16 type calliper in the form of a Willwood Dynalite. Apparently RD supplied that part at one time and Callan had a spare s/h set. He titivated them and shipped them (although I am sure he can make some for you) with the rest of the RD kit along with some adapters for the upper rose joints (which I have still to install, perhaps!).
The fitting of all this lot was not easy and was made more difficult by the vented disk which is thicker than normal. My setup is unique I guess, most people would probably be upgrading the callipers at the same time which would already fit the RD kit. Here is a list of all my modifications in case you wish to follow my path.
* Missing M16 x 1.5 castle nuts and Ford keyed washer. The only washer supplied has to be opened out to 18mm. The stub axle has to have 5mm removed to allow the alloy cap to fit. After adding the castle nuts the alloy cap had to be opened out (internally) to stop it fouling the alloy cap with the slit pin.
* The lower Maxi ball joints comes with a 3/8" hole and the wishbones have a 10mm hole. This can and did lead to wearing of the bolts (on previous build) if not changed to 10mm.
* Alloy hub needs turned in lathe to provide the extra room for the vented disk. This amounted to 2mm.
* Brake calliper fits but needs 3mm spacers when the above is done.
* Cycle wing supports are a total misfit to upright, lots of thought went into this as I did not want the expense/effort of adding new wing stays. Minor fabrication welds to the original cycle wing stays. A bit tricky you need two people to get the fit right.
* The Dynalyte calliper mounting bracket fouls the RD upright casting. A chunk of the alloy bracket needs removed but not enough to weaken it.
* The existing ball joints don't fit the RD upright. A search on the Locostbuilders forum revealed the following.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FYI found this thread on Locostbuilders
”TRE (Track Rod Ends)
There are two different tapers and two different threads
1) Escort MkII Escort are M14 with the metric (large) taper. (this also include granadas to 1987, Cortinas MkIII and Mk V to 1982). FT722 , QR1834
2) Capri MkI, MkII, MkIII all up to September 1987, also some Escort Mk I and other fords (Fiesta up to 1993, Orion and Escort MkIII and MkIV, to 1990). are imperial thread and imperial (small) taper. Part number; Ford 6128814 & 5021410. Direct Part Number DR2377, AMR1205
MkII RS2000 uses MkII Escort rack and Capri uprights and so uses a hybrid TRE (M14 thread, but small taper). These are also known as “green” TRE, as they are (you guessed it) Green (at least the For original one, this doesn’t apply to the equivalent pattern parts!). AMR4118. 1564468. AM260
Most TRE labelled RS2000 on e-bay are wrong. I had to send 2 pairs back before spending more money on proper ones. “
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 |
| New RD upright and wing stays fit issue |
 |
| Old Cortina uprights |
 |
| Mod to Dynalite bracket |
 |
| Washer needs to be 18mm |
 |
| Missing Ford washer |
 |
| Reduced stub axel |
 |
| Castle nut in place stub axel too long |
 |
| Drilling out cap to fit |
 |
| View from front ball joint still to tighten |
 |
| Modified wing stay arrangement |
 |
| Not a lot of disk to adapter plate clearance but enough! |
Contents
There is a contents page Link Monday 22 December 2014
Lithium Ion Battery
I invested a new LIP012C Lithium Ion motorcycle battery. The weight difference between the battery it had in and it's hi tech replacement is 9Kgs. I have no idea of the down side, it appears to start the engine immediately from stone cold. I have not had an attempt at using the electric reverse yet.
I look forward to the weight saving in my new bonnet when it eventually comes.
I look forward to the weight saving in my new bonnet when it eventually comes.
Contents
There is a contents page Link
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